Real People: Tweed, Oxford, and Wool Challis
We’re still about a month away from fall, but I’m already thinking about heavy flannels and thick coats. Derek from Nashville provides some nice inspiration. Here he’s wearing a houndstooth checked tweed sport coat from Martin Greenfield, an oxford cloth button down shirt from Kamakura, and a solid, olive green wool challis tie from Sam Hober. The combination of textures keeps things visually warm and interesting, while the pattern on the jacket adds a little variation to an otherwise solid-colored ensemble. You can’t tell from the photo, but the shirt is actually light blue, not white, which makes for a nice complement to the rustic browns, oranges, and greens that Derek is wearing. I imagine on his feet are brown suede shoes.
These photos had me shopping around for more wool challis ties last night. Sam Hober, EG Cappelli, Exquisite Trimmings, O’Connell’s, J. Press, Brooks Brothers, and Henry Carter are all worth looking into. The first four have the largest selection of patterns, while the last two are having sales.
The History of Paisley
Before the design arrived in contemporary menswear it had to take quite the long journey: originally from Persia, the motif became popular in India from where it was imported by British colonialists in the 17th century. Queen Victoria liked it so much she started a whole paisley trend.
The problem with the imported paisley cloth (used mainly for scarfs) was that it was very expensive. So printers in Europe started copying the design locally, in Britain especially in and around the Scottish town Paisley; that’s where it’s modern name comes from.
At first, these prints were of low quality, not comparable to the richness of the originals, but the process was refined over time; today, the most traditional technique is to screen print on silk, wool and various mixtures.
This is also the technique we use for our pocket squares and ties. In our upcoming fall/winter collection, we will have a nice assortment of pocket squares, ties and scarfs in various paisley patterns: rich browns and blues on cream wool; real ancient madder ties in glorious blues and reds; warm brown on gold for scarfs.